Archive for the ‘Flowerbeds’ Category
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Do you water frequently? Leave a section of hose laid out down the center of the garden. Drive double stakes of wood at intervals to keep the hose from decimating the vegetables as you pull it back and forth.
Double stakes protect garden from hose
Another gardener, who has several small vegetable plots, drives a stake at the corner of each bed to protect plants while he drags the hose around. Read the rest of this entry »
Categories:
Flowerbeds,
Gardening Equipment,
Paths,
Plant Materials,
Plants,
Relaxation,
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Soil,
Spring,
Vegetables,
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If weeds are growing around the perimeter of your garden, scattering seeds into the garden, cut those weeds with a scythe, then add them to the compost pile. The scythe is a remarkable and efficient tool in the hands of an expert. An able hand doesn’t flail at the weeds with the scythe. He holds it loosely, comfortably, and moves the blade by pivoting his body, keeping the blade parallel to and close to the ground. He stops often to sharpen the blade. The scythe doesn’t actually get dull that quickly, but frequent sharpening is a good way to relax shoulder and arm muscles. Read the rest of this entry »
Categories:
Bird Baths,
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garden
I encourage gardeners with animal problems to put a fence around the garden. Nothing beats a secure fence for keeping out rabbits, woodchucks, raccoons, dogs, and cats. It even helps to control the traffic of neighborhood kids scooting through the yard.
Get your fence up early, before animal pests make their first forays. Once they get a taste of what’s in your garden they are determined to get back in for extra helpings.
I use fences made of 3-foot-high chicken wire (1- or 11/2-inch mesh), topped by a single strand of electric wire 1 inch above the top. An electric fence is the best way to keep raccoons out of the corn patch. The jolt a raccoon gets when he grabs the electric wire convinces him to try a garden somewhere else. The only time I hitch up the battery and energize the wire is before and during the corn harvest. I run it from late afternoon until early morning. Read the rest of this entry »
Categories:
Air Quality,
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Forest Garden,
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Squirrels and chipmunks are fun to watch, but they are the hardest to keep away from your corn and sunflowers. A fence won’t keep them out, not even an electric one. They jump so well and scurry into the garden so fast that an electric shock doesn’t stop them. They’re in the garden while they’re still feeling the zap.
In the sweet corn or popcorn rows, squirrels climb right up the stalks and eat the ears. They’re smart. Often they only work the inside rows so you won’t notice them. A few times I have seen squirrels trying to haul away whole ears of corn. In a row of sunflowers they can jump from one stalk to the next as if they were in a tree.
In a small garden you may be able to use old stockings or heesecloth on the sunflower heads and corn ears to foil the squirrels at harvest time. In a big garden, an active cat or an eager dog may be your only hope. Read the rest of this entry »
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garden
Digging is usually necessary to incorporate bulky organic materials, relieve compaction, improve drainage, improve soil texture and control growth of weeds.
- Single digging Type of digging in which the soil is cultivated to the depth of the spade blade. The most widely practised form of digging, adequate for most ordinary soils of reasonable depth which do not overlay an intractable subsoil. First, take out a trench one blade deep, then fill this in using adjacent soil, turning each spadeful upsidedown as you do. As you move in this way across the areas of ground, the trench moves with you. Soil from the first trench is used to fill the final one at the other end of the plot.
- Double digging Digging soil to two depths of the spade. Especially useful on land which has not been cultivated before or where a hard subsoil layer is impeding drainage and the penetration of plant roots. Read the rest of this entry »
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Success with this method depends upon providing the right conditions. Warmth and humidity are essential for good results in every case.
To extend the lift of a cut flower display, pick the bloomsin the early morning or in the evening. Cut at an angle to expose more water-carrying cells. The following are specially recommended for cutting, as the flowers are long-lasting when arranged in water.
Categories:
Autumn,
Flowerbeds,
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Lighting,
Patio,
Plants,
Roof Garden,
Rose,
Soil,
Spring,
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Water Garden,
Winter
As well as being invaluable for giving height to an otherwise flat plot, climbers and wall shrubs also offer an excellent way to disguise an ugly enclosure or hide unsightly objects. To grow well, all need some means of support — a wall or fence, or perhaps a rustic arch or pergola erected purely for the plants‘ convenience.
The so-called “self-clinging” types have either aerial roots (the ivy) or sucker pads (Virginia creeper). Other climbers (such as grape vines) have tendrils. Ramblers (such as honeysuckle) push toward the light by twining around a host plant. Some shrubs, although not strictly climbers, adopt an upright habit when grown against a wall — for example, Pyracantha. Read the rest of this entry »
Categories:
Autumn,
Flowerbeds,
French,
Fruit,
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Paths,
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Seeds,
Soil,
Spring,
Summer,
Vegetables,
Water Garden,
Winter
Vegetables grown at home and used immediately after gathering have a much better flavour than those bought in the shops. Contrary to popular belief, it is not necessary to have a large garden. Various small vegetables do well in containers on a patio, or in patches in a flowerbed or border. There are several vegetables, too, for the greenhouse, and even for growing in partial shade. It is possible to have an all- round supply: many people especially appreciate fresh produce in the depths of winter.
As an alternative to the traditional method of arranging vegetables in rows, the “deep-bed” system allows you to grow more crops in the space available, because the plants are closer together. The crops are grown in blocks or bands across the I.2m/4ft wide beds, which are separated by 30-45cm/12-18in wide paths, from which you work at all times, except when digging. Initially you should prepare the beds by double-digging (see p36) and adding plenty of manure or garden compost. Repeat the double-digging every3-4 years: in the intervening years, use normal single digging. Rotate crops to get the best from the soil. Read the rest of this entry »
Categories:
Bird Baths,
Bonsai,
Fernery,
Flowerbeds,
Forest Garden,
Fountains,
Fruit,
Furniture,
Gardening Equipment,
Herbs,
Hydroponic Garden,
Insect Watching,
Lighting,
Outdoor,
Outdoor Art,
Paths,
Patio,
Plant Cultivation,
Plant Materials,
Plants,
Precipitation,
Rocks,
Roof Garden,
Rose,
Seeds,
Soil,
Spring,
Summer,
Sunshine,
Tropical,
Vegetables,
Vertical Garden,
Water Garden,
Wildflower,
Windowbox
Birds usually create the biggest problem, but you should look out too for mites and weevils.
- Apple blossom weevil The small white grubs of this tiny brown beetle eat the central parts of apple flowers. Infested blossoms fail to open. Spray with permethrin as the buds are forming or fenitrothion as the buds burst open.
- Big bud mites Tiny mites that live in large numbers inside the buds of blackcurrants. Infected buds are swollen and round, and usually fail to come into growth. Pick off and burn; spray with benomyl fungicide in spring and early summer. Read the rest of this entry »
Categories:
Air Quality,
Autumn,
Bird Baths,
Bird Watching,
Bonsai,
Botanical Garden,
Flowerbeds,
Forest Garden,
Fountains,
Furniture,
Gardening Equipment,
Outdoor,
Outdoor Art,
Paths,
Patio,
Plant Cultivation,
Plant Materials,
Plants,
Pool,
Rose,
Seeds,
Soil,
Spring,
Summer,
Sunshine,
Vegetables,
Water Garden,
Winter
Climbing roses will grow in tubs. Choose climbers rather than ramblers, as climbers grow more circumspectly and are less prone to mildew and other problems. The list is endless, but I would not like to be without ‘Zephyrine Drouhin’, despite her tendency to mildew, ‘Handel’, which is cream with rosy pink edges and has handsome bronze foliage, or ‘Maigold’, which is double yellow and beautifully scented. Some roses will flourish only on south walls while others are happy in a west or east aspect and others will even tolerate a north wall. Then there are those that are scented and those that are not, those that have one magnificent flowering and then call it a day and others that flower less prolifically but throughout the summer. Read the rest of this entry »
Categories:
Bird Baths,
Bonsai,
Botanical Garden,
Decor,
Fernery,
Flowerbeds,
Fountains,
Insect Watching,
Lighting,
Orchard,
Plants,
Vertical Garden
Plants have a wonderful knack of not just enlivening a room but actually becoming useful decorative devices that make the most of good features or disguise the bad ones. Any room in a house can have things that need highlighting as well as lots of areas that you’d rather not draw too much attention to. Plants can work for you in solving difficult decorating problems and they are cheaper and a lot more fun than getting in the builders.
Many old houses which have seen years of changes and alterations, particularly to plumbing, may have tangles of pipe-work either exposed or badly boxed in. A hanging basket or container with a good easy trailing species such as an ivy or the grape ivy can disguise the ugliest bits and can even be trained along the parts you wish to hide. Read the rest of this entry »
Categories:
Autumn,
Dutch,
English,
Flowerbeds,
Herbs,
Lighting,
Paths,
Patio,
Plants,
Rose,
Spring,
Summer,
Water Garden,
Winter
As with David Austin English Bush roses, these Shrub and Climbing varieties are characterised by the shape of their blooms — the quartered, highly perfumed blooms of old roses. These sumptuous blooms, combined with the graceful growth habits of Shrubs and Climbers, make this category of roses particularly appealing.
These varieties grow between 1,5 m and 3 m high when self‑supporting, but long climbing shoots can be trained to a height of 5 m on walls, pillars and pergolas. Since they willingly push out basal shoots, winter pruning consists of removing older stems from the centre. Basal stems often grow to a length of 2 m and more. They can be pruned, or if left unshortened, they will arch gracefully and carry blooms along their entire length.
Once spring flowering is over, the main stems can be cut back to about 1.2 m, which will encourage a new flush of blooms. Alternatively, the stems can be shortened in winter, which will increase the length of the flowering stems and size ofthe blooms. Read the rest of this entry »
Low bowlsare comfortable-looking containers for plants.
Unpretentious, and often hardly visible below the planting, they should carry a mound of plants just a little above the ground. They are at their most attractive when they can be seen from above, or at least from a fairly high angle. If the bowl is very shallow, there will be only a little room for the roots, limiting the type of plants you can grow. In very shallow bowls, only succulents, such as houseleeks, will grow well. If you want to grow low annuals and trailing perennials, use bowls that are at least 15cm (6in) deep.
Kitchware
Many containers used in the home can easily become low bowls in the garden, although if they started life as watertight vessels you will need to drill holes in them to provide adequate drainage. Read the rest of this entry »
Categories:
English,
Flowerbeds,
Fountains,
Furniture,
Lighting,
Paths,
Patio,
Pool,
Raised Beds,
Terrace,
Water Garden
Paths and patios are the hard landscape ‘bones’ of your garden and provide the design framework around which the softer elements of lawns, planting and other features can be positioned. They are crucial to your enjoyment of the garden, providing areas for sitting, dining, play and many other activities as well as access to other features. Simplicity and strength of purpose are all-important in this part of the design. You should choose your materials carefully from the vast range available, taking your time over the choice and thinking about the visual and cost implications. Paving is perhaps the most long-term investment in your garden; make sure it is right for you and your situation before you buy. Any paving close to the house will relate strongly to it, so this should also influence your choice. Look around your area to see what materials predominate locally, and use them for the most sympathetic result. Read the rest of this entry »
A formal pattern suggests symmetry in which one side or part of a garden or design is identical to the other. While this is not always strictly true, we tend to think of a formal design as one that is built up from geometric elements rather than free-form shapes, displaying a strong degree of visual control and stability.
As far as pools are concerned, the geometry can be square, rectangular, circular, triangular or even a combination of these elements. Formal ponds are usually surrounded by a coping of some kind, even if they are set within an area of soft landscaping in the form of lawn or planting. They may form a set-piece within the larger setting of a courtyard, sunken garden or parterre, and will associate particularly well with decorative features such as statuary, topiary or regularly placed urns and ornaments. Read the rest of this entry »
I learnt a great deal from Walter that first year of gardening. The first thing I learnt was that he knew a great deal more about the subject than I thought he did. I was a complete novice, and I thought that he was too. I knew he had had gardens and gardeners, but I assumed that being very busy he had left all the planning and work to them. I may say I got very tired of one particular gardener during that first year. He was quoted at me morning, noon and night until I came to hate his name. Everything he did was perfect, he never neglected anything and he always did all the jobs that needed doing at the right time. It was no good for me to tell Walter that I had to sandwich my gardening between housekeeping, household jobs and a certain amount of social life. In his opinion there was no excuse for not getting things done at the right time. Read the rest of this entry »
Levelling the beds was the worst job of all. I knew enough to save the top soil and take away the clay underneath, but the problem was what to do with the stuff. I had heaps of good soil all over the place where I was working and the clay had to be wheeled right away and dumped somewhere in the lower garden. The only way to get it there was down a plank over the stone steps. It was cold and damp with mud everywhere and the wheelbarrow was always tipping itself over as my unskilful hands tried to balance it on the greasy plank.
Luckily it was a mild, if wet winter, and by the early spring I had done most of the work. It didn’t meet with approval and I admit it did look bleak. Every morning at breakfast I was greeted with ‘Stones, stones, stones!’ Or it might be a query ‘How is the floral quarry this morning?’ Walter’s bathroom overlooked that part of the garden and as he liked to dawdle over his bath and shaving he had ample opportunity to gaze with horror on what I had done the day before. Read the rest of this entry »
While the lawn and drive were being made I had to work as a labourer with Walter and the garden boy, but when they were finished I was at last permitted to go off and amuse myself in what was to be my part of the garden, the flower beds. I had long been considering what should be done with the ground on the west of the house. This was on a higher level than the rest and sloped up to a small orchard. We were lucky that our garden was on different levels. A garden that is completely flat is difficult to make interesting. We all know gardens that start as a field and finish as a field, no matter what the owners do in the way of trouble and expense. The kindest thing fate can do to you is to give you a garden that slopes away from the house. The upward slope is more difficult to deal with as great care has to be taken that it does not become top heavy.
When we bought the house this part of the garden rose sharply to the orchard without path or form. The speculator who sold the house to us had put in a few miserable gooseberry bushes, but they were choked with couch grass. In fact, it was nothing but a wilderness and looked the most uninspiring material for a garden. Read the rest of this entry »
As a lot of the goodness must seep into the ground from my compost heaps I have had the bottom of the compost enclosure concreted. Instead of having the ground quite level it slopes down very slightly, and along the lower side I have about a foot of vertical concrete (breeze blocks in fact). My compost enclosures are at the top of a ditch, so it has been easy for me to run out three small drains into the ditch. The rich ooze from the heaps drains into receptacles placed to receive it and gives me a constant supply of liquid manure. It is wonderful what a fillip this diluted goo water gives to a plant that is just coming into flower. In the summer the sweet corn particularly is the lucky recipient of this largesse. Read the rest of this entry »