All about growing Orchids

Because there are so many orchid species and hybrids originating in diverse climatic regions, their growing conditions differ. Some, such as the indigenous tiger orchid (Ansellia gigantea), cattleyas, paphiopedilums and phalaenopsis, can be grown outdoors in the warm, humid conditions of the Natal coast and parts of the Transvaal lowveld where moisture can be applied. Others not suited to these conditions, such as cymbidiums, can be grown outdoors in cooler regions, if protected from frost. Most growers prefer to grow their plants either in shade houses where conditions are suitable or in greenhouses.

As temperature, light and humidity are of paramount importance when growing orchids, it is vital that the exact growing requirements of the various species and their hybrids be fully understood. Tropical orchids, such as phalaenopsis and vandas, need a minimum night temperature of 18-21°C, with day temperatures of about 32-35°C during summer and only a few degrees difference in winter. On the other hand, cymbidiums need somewhat cooler conditions, with summer temperatures of about 21-32°C and winter temperatures of 14-18°C.

The beginner orchid grower should concentrate on those types which are suited to his growing conditions — whether outdoors in a shade house or in a heated greenhouse.

Caring for orchids

All orchids thrive on humidity, which must be balanced with the temperature, so that as heat increases, the atmospheric humidity rises as well. The humidity should be on average between 75 and 80 percent. To achieve this, the soil, path and staging in the shade house or greenhouse can be damped down early in the morning and also in the middle of the day if the weather is hot. Do not spray the plants themselves at midday, however. Place the plants on humidity trays on top of inverted saucers. Give an overhead spraying of rainwater, but do it early enough for the plants to dry off before the nightfall temperature drops. Ventilation is essential, but draughts are death to orchids, especially disas. Slow, electric, greenhouse fans keep the air moving while preserving humidity, yet do not cause draughts. Box ventilators let into the walls below the staging and with

Fine mesh gauze to keep insects out are probably the ideal. Most orchids need between 50 and 70 per cent shade in summer or the foliage will be scorched. So adequate shading is essential, either with the correct gauge of shade-cloth or by painting the glass with a coat of greenhouse shading paint — or you could put up roller blinds. Correct watering is the most important factor in determining success or failure in growing orchids. Nearly all cultivated orchids like the compost to dry out almost completely between watering, provided the atmosphere is moist. It is important to ensure swift drainage to prevent the roots from rotting; on the other hand, the compost must not become so dry that plant growth is slowed and the pseudo bulbs begin to shrivel. Should this happen, a good soaking will plump them up again. The deciduous varieties shed their foliage when their resting time arrives: as the leaves turn yellow, watering should be reduced. From the time when the leaves fall until fresh growth appears, it should be reduced to a minimum — say, once a fortnight or so.

Repotting should always be carried out in the spring months, when the plant is at its most active. Orchids grow best in special orchid compost which usually contains no soil and is based on a mixture of sphagnum moss, peat and osmunda fibre, with a little charcoal added. The raw ingredients are often difficult to obtain, so it is best to buy a proprietary orchid compost.

Most pot plant feeds are suitable and may be added to the water or applied as a foliar feed. A high-nitrogen feed in spring will stimulate growth, and a high-potash one, such as 3:1:5, given later on, will encourage flowering. There are also some special orchid feeds available.

Propagating orchids

Growing orchids from seed was once regarded as a near-impossible task. An orchid pod contains up to four million seeds as fine as dust. In natural conditions, these may be carried on the wind for hundreds or even thousands of kilometres, until a few of them settle by chance near a root fungus called mycorrhiza. The seeds can germinate without the fungus, but they need it to go on growing after that.

It was discovered that orchid seeds could be made to germinate artificially by sowing them in Knudson’s Formula ‘C’, a sterile medium containing trace elements. Since then, growers have been able to breed new hybrid plants which surpass the original species in colour, shape and size, as well as being far easier to grow and in a wider variety of conditions. It is also possible to propagate orchids by division. A small plantlet appears on the pseudo bulb or stem which, if left, will usually send roots into the air. These small plants can be cut off with a sharp knife and planted in pots containing loose compost that gives the roots plenty of air. Give a very small amount of water in the form of a fine spray until the roots have settled.

Orchids such as cymbidiums, cattleyas and odontoglossums have pseudo bulbs. These storage organs are formed from swollen stem tissue and resemble egg-shaped bulbs. Each season, new growth starts from a dormant ‘eye’ at the base which becomes another pseudo bulb growing beside the first. In autumn, when the season’s growth has finished, the rootstock can be cut but left in the pot until the following spring; the bulb immediately behind the cut will begin to grow and can be planted separately.

Cuttings may be taken from some varieties of orchid. For example, a side branch from a vanda can be cut off and potted up when the aerial roots growing from it have reached about 6 cm.

Tips for beginners

• Join an orchid society where, for a small annual subscription, you can share the knowledge gained by experienced growers.
• Begin by growing species and hybrids selected to suit your growing conditions.
• When your first orchids bloom, remove the flowers after two or three weeks to keep strength in your plants. The cut flowers will live for several weeks in water.
• Orchids which like cool conditions may not flower if there is not a marked drop in temperature at night. Leave a little ventilation in your greenhouse, but avoid draughts.
• To prevent damage by pests and diseases, make sure that weeds and dead and decaying matter are removed from around the plants.

Open-slatted staging is best. It will allow air to circulate freely and prevent your orchid plants from becoming waterlogged.

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