Five types of mower

The large range of lawn mowers available falls into two basic categories: cylinder and rotary.

• Cylinder mower, manual Blades are attached to a cylinder which revolves horizontally against a fixed blade. Cylinder mowers provide a fine, even cut on good turf but are no use on rough ground. There are side-wheel models and rear-roller models: the latter give a striped effect. A mower with a 5- or 6- bladed cylinder is suitable only for coarse lawns; more blades are needed for fine lawns. Various cutting widths are available. Most cylinder mowers have a grassbox to collect the clippings: you should use this.

• Cylinder mower, powered Petrol engine, battery or mains electricity. Again, not suitable for rough ground. Some power mowers are self-propelled, others have to be pushed as only the cylinder is powered. The former are recommended for large lawns. Where an exceptionally fine cut is required a mower with a 10- or 12-bladed cylinder is recommended.

• Rotary mower, self-propelled For cutting rough grass, including banks, this is the best choice. Blades rotating at high speed slash the grass, rather like a scythe. Some models are equipped with grassboxes or bags, others are not. Self-propelled rotaries have either wheels or rollers. Petrol or electric, the latter for small grass areas. Rotaries are not intended for use on fine lawns. Some models are supplied with a grassbox, which you should make a habit of using.

• Rotary mower, hand-propelled Only the blades are powered, so you have to push the machine. Recommended only for small areas of grass.

• Hover mower Works on the rotary principle but instead of being supported on wheels it hovers on a cushion of air. Electric or petrol-driven. Very easy to use. Recommended for utility lawns. Some hovers come with a grassbox.

Three hints on buying tools

Buying tools is like buying anything else: you only get what you pay for. Don’t be tempted by false economy.

• Quality of steel With cutting tools, such as knives, secateurs or saws, you should shop at the top end of the market. On cheap cutting tools the steel will be soft and of poor quality, so that cutting edges will soon become blunt, and quickly worn away by sharpening. Likewise, spades and forks of good- quality forged steel will last a lifetime.

• Stainless steel Spades, forks, rakes, hoes, hand forks, trowels and other tools of this type are available in stainless steel versions. These are far more expensive than tools in forged steel but they are long-lasting, penetrate the soil more easily and soil is less likely to stick to them. Do not choose stainless steel knife blades, however; they quickly become blunt and are difficult to sharpen.

• Shafts and handles Shafts are made from several different materials. Wood is traditional and long-lasting: make sure that the wood is close grained and that the grain runs down the length of the shaft. Shafts made from polypropylene are lightweight yet strong. Lighter tools such as hoes and rakes are often equipped with aluminium, alloy sheets coated with plastic. Spades and forks are fitted with handles in three shapes: ^-r, D and YD. If possible try all three before choosing.

Six aspects of tool care

Thoroughly clean gardening tools and machines after use so that they remain in good working order. Dirty tools can mean harder work.

• Hand tools After use, brush or scrape hand tools free of soil, then (unless they are of stainless steel) rub over blades with an oily rag to prevent rust formation.

• Mowers After use, clear away grass cuttings. Clean with a stiff hand brush and remove any long stems from around cylinder or rotor spindle. Undersides of rotary mowers may become rusty if left dirty. Wash clean, rub down any rust with emery paper and rub metal surfaces with an oily rag. Regular lubrication is important — follow maintenance instructions in the handbook.

• Power tools Cultivators should be oiled and greased after use. Carry out regular maintenance as described in handbook. Keep rotor blades clean and lightly oiled. Give similar treatment to hedge trimmers, chain saws and powered trimmers.

• Servicing Follow manufacturer’s instructions regarding the servicing of lawn mowers, cultivators and other machines and powered equipment. Correct sharpening and adjustment once a year will help to ensure many years of life. During the winter inspect machines for rust on painted surfaces. If rust is present, rub down painted areas thoroughly with emery paper, prime any bare metal, then apply a paint recommended for metal surfaces.

• Sharpening Few gardeners think of sharpening a hoe or spade but both tools will cut better if their edges are kept keen. Use a file to hone up leading edge of blade. Knives and secateurs should always have a really keen edge: use an oilstone for best results. Only sharpen the factory-sharpened edge. (The job can be done professionally if you prefer.)

• Storage Store all tools and machines in a dry shed or garage. Provide a rack or a series of hooks for tools to keep them tidy.

Keep metal parts of all tools in store lightly coated with oil or grease. Before storing a petrol-driven machine, empty the tank.

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