Garden compost is the next best thing to farmyard manure. There are many materials that can be composted — that is, formed into a heap and rotted down.
Setting up the bins To retain the heap of compost material construct a wire-netting enclosure 1.2m/4ft high, 1.2m/4ft wide and any length you wish. Alternatively, use a proprietary compost bin. It’s best to have two compost heaps: one for immediate use, the other in the process of rotting.
Choosing the compostable materials Mix the various materials together before adding them to the heap. You can use annual weeds, lawn mowings, potato peelings, animal manure, torn-up newspaper, soft hedge clippings, vegetable leaves and stems, tree and shrub leaves, and many other kinds of soft material — but not hard woody stuff such as fruit-tree prunings. In a separate wire bin you can also rot down deciduous leaves on their own to make soil-enriching leafmould.
Constructing the heap Place a 15-23cm/6—9in layer of slightly moist compost material in the bin. Lightly firm it down. Scatter sulphate of ammonia over this layer at the rate of 12g per sq metre/1/2oz to the sq yard, then add another layer of compost material. Continue in this fashion until the bin is full. Keep a cover over the top of the heap at all times. You can alternate the layer of sulphate of ammonia with one of lime to counteract acidity. Alternatively, you can use a proprietary compost activator between each layer.
* Using the compost Decomposition is more rapid in spring and summer than in autumn and winter. A good heap should be ready to use within 6 months of being completed. The compost should be brown and crumbly. Allow a year or even 2 years for leafmould. Dig in compost at 4kg per sq metre/10lb per sq yard.
Seven ways to suppress weeds
Seeds must be kept under control for they compete with cultivated plants for food, moisture, air and light. A dense weed cover between plants can seriously retard growth.
Hand weeding Small areas, rock gardens and the like can be weeded by hand. Use a hand fork to lightly loosen the soil, then pull out the weeds including roots. With perennial weeds, such as dandelions, you will have to dig deeper, as their roots are long. Weeds come out more easily after rain.
Hoeing and cultivating In the vegetable and flower garden you can kill seedling weeds by hoeing regularly, using a Dutch or draw hoe. Choose a warm, dry day, when the soil surface is dry. A cultivator hoe drawn through the soil regularly will serve the same purpose (as well as prevent surface panning).
Spot weeding Treatment of individual perennial weeds (such as dandelions, docks or bindweed) with a weedkiller in aerosol or stick form. Only feasible where few weeds are present. Useful for flower borders and lawns. Mostly the weedkiller glyphosate is used. For lawns use a selective weedkiller.
Weedkillers You can kill most weeds with just a few of the many different chemical weedkillers available in garden centres. Paraquat is useful for killing annual weeds on bare ground, or between shrubs, fruits and so on if used carefully; do not allow it to come in contact with foliage of cultivated plants. The same warning applies to glyphosate, which controls a wide range of perennial weeds. Certain weedkillers can be applied to completely weed-free soil between cultivated plants to prevent germination of weed seeds for many weeks (dichlobenil granules) or many months (simazine). The soil must not be disturbed after application. With all weedkillers, carefully follow manufacturers’ instructions or you could damage or kill valued plants.
Organic mulchesBulky organic materials, such as well-rotted farmyard manure, garden compost, leafmould, spent hops, pulverized bark and mushroom compost, can be used to cover the soil around permanent plants. This technique, known as mulching, suppresses annual weeds and helps to conserve soil moisture in dry weather. Apply a mulch in spring to completely weed-free, moist soil, about 6-8cm/2-3in deep. Top up as necessary in spring.
Polythene mulching Sheets of black mulching polythene laid over the soil, with edges buried in the soil, will suppress annual weeds. A technique for the vegetable or fruit garden. Lay sheets between rows; or lay a large sheet first and plant vegetables (such as brassicas, strawberries and lettuces) through holes made at regular intervals.
Mineral mulches In certain ornamental areas, such as the rock garden or beds of permanent plants around a patio, you can permanently cover the soil surface with a decorative layer of pea shingle, about 1.25-2.5cm/1/2-1in deep. Suppresses annual weeds and helps conserve soil moisture in dry weather.
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