Planting and plant care

Planting techniques vary slightly according to whether you buy plants in containers from garden centres or bare-root plants (as lifted from the field) supplied by nurserymen. There are also various ways of planting bulbs. Get the technique right and plant at the right time: your plants will then be off to a good start. Some plants will need supports against the wind.

Four planting methods

These are the techniques for planting the major groups ofgarden plants: trees, shrubs, conifers, climbers, perennials, bedding plants and blubs. To get plants such as trees, shrubs, conifers and fruits off to a good start, especially if you have a poor or difficult soil, consider using a planting mixture. You can buy proprietary mixtures or you can make your own — a bucketful of moist peat or coco fibre mixed with a small handful of blood, bone and fishmeal. A spadeful of planting mixture can be forked into the soil in the bottom of the planting hole, and more mixed in with the solid which is to be returned around the roots.

• Bare-root plants If you buy from a local or mail-order nurseryman, you may well find that the plants are not in containers or do not have a ball of soil around the roots. The roots should, however, be wrapped to prevent drying out. Deciduous shrubs, trees and climbers, as well as hardy perennials, may be supplied in this way; also tree, bush and case fruits. Bare-root plants are sold and planted in the dormant season — late autumn to early spring. The technique is simple. First take out a planting hole deep enough to allow the roots to spread out (or to dangle straight down in the case of perennials) to their full extent. Return some fine soil over the roots and gently shake the plant up and down to work the soil well between them. Firm with your heels. Then return the rest of the soil, firming as you proceed. Always plant to the same depth that the plants were growing in the nursery — indicated by a soil mark at the base of the stem or trunk. The dormant buds (crown) of perennials must not be covered with soil.

• Bedding plants Spring-flowering bedding plants, such as wallflowers (Cheiranthus cheiri) are planted in early autumn, summer-flowering ones in late spring or early summer, when danger of frost is over. Wallflowers may be bought as bare-root plants, in which case use the planting technique described above. However, most spring and summer bedding plants are supplied in containers, such as pots, trays and plastic strips. Before planting, water the plants to make sure compost is thoroughly moist. Carefully remove the plants from their containers so as not to damage or disturb the roots. In the case of bedding plants in trays, carefully tease plants apart using a hand fork, aiming to retain as much soil as possible around the roots. Take out planting holes large enough to take roots or root-balls without cramping. Return fine soil around roots and firm with your hands. Water in thoroughly if soil is dry.

• Bulbs Spring-flowering bulbs are planted in early autumn; summer and autumn-flowering kinds in spring or summer. Planting depths (amount of soil over tops of bulbs) varies according to size of bulb. As a guide, small or miniature bulbs such as crocuses are planted in holes 8cm/3in deep, while larger kinds such as daffodils can be planted in holes 15cm/6in deep. When planting a few bulbs you can make the holes with a hand trowel. For a lot of bulbs use a bulb planter, which takes out a core of soil; place bulb in hole and return the core. A bulb planter is useful too for planting in grass. Whichever method you use, always ensure bottom of bulb is in close contact with soil. For large drifts of bulbs in grass, you might find it easiest to lift an area of turf, plant the bulbs (with a trowel or bulb planter), then re-lay turf.

• Container-grown plants Plants bought from garden centres in containers can be planted any time of year, provided the soil is not frozen or excessively wet. Conifers and other evergreen shrubs are sometimes supplied with a ball of soil around the roots, which is tightly wrapped with hessian. These can also be considered as container-grown plants, but are only bought and planted in early autumn or mid-spring. The planting technique is as follows. Take out a hole only slightly larger than the root- ball. Carefully remove the plant from its container, avoiding root disturbance. Place plant in centre of hole and return fine soil around rootball, firming it thoroughly. The top of the root- ball should be only slightly below the soil surface after planting.

Five ways to support plants

Newly planted trees and some shrubs will be able to support themselves as soon as roots are well established but require staking initially, particularly in windy gardens. Garden plants with large heavy blooms (such as dahlias and chrysanthemums) need constant support.

Canes Bamboo canes of appropriate height can be used to support thin-stemmed hardy perennials, such as Michaelmas daisies (Aster). Insert 3 in a triangular formation around a clump, before the stems become too high; encircle the stems as they grow with loops of green gardening string. Single canes can be used for newly planted tall shrubs such as brooms (Cytisus) and certain conifers, particularly Leyland cypress (x Cupressocyparis); tie in stems with soft green garden string. Single canes are also recommended for gladioli, delphiniums and chrysanthemums.

• Metal plant supports These are proprietary wire hoops on legs, useful for hardy perennials. The support encircles the stems and comes in various sizes.

• Tree stakes You put in a tree stake after you have dug the planting hole. Use either a length of 5 x 5cm/2 x 2in timber or a larch pole. Bury this in the hole just off-centre, to windward of where the trunk will be in its central position. Top of stake should be just below the lowest branch. With stake firmly in place, plant the tree. Then fix one tree tie 5cm/2in from top of stake and another 30cm/12in above soil level. Use proprietary Plastic buckle-type ties; check regularly and loosen as necessary. Remove stake after a couple of years, once the tree is well rooted into the soil; otherwise the tree will come to rely on it and may make only a weak root system. (Some gardeners prefer to use a stake that protrudes just 30cm/12in from the soil, attached to the tree by one tie. This allows more tree movement, which is said to promote rooting).

• Twiggy sticks Bushy herbaceous plants (hardy perennials) and hardy annuals may be supported by pushing twiggy sticks or branches among them while they are small. As the plants grow they mask the branches but are held steady by them.

• Wooden stakes Dahlias, standard roses and other top-heavy plants may be supported with 2.5cm/lin square wooden stakes pushed into the ground alongside them. Fasten stems to supports with soft twine — or strong tarred twine for standard roses which are permanently staked.

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