Care of Orchid foliage and flowers

Like everything in the home, your house plants will become dusty, and orchids are no exception. An accumulation of fine dust building up on the surface of the leaves will, if left for a long period, prevent the leaves from breathing properly and will impede the light which is so essential for a healthy plant. Periodically, at least once a month, this dust should be cleaned off using a wet sponge and a bowl of clean water, wiping each leaf and the stems and bulbs. The leaves can then be passed under a running tap. This will not only greatly benefit the plant but will also improve its appearance. Flowers and buds should not be dusted, these should be left well alone for fear of bruising.

Spraying

Many orchids enjoy a daily spraying of their foliage. In the home this is difficult for obvious reasons, but if the plant is removed from the growing area for regular watering, spraying could be carried out at the same time. Where plants are grown in a sun room or conservatory the culture will resemble that in a greenhouse. On hot sunny days plants like Cymbidiums will benefit from a thorough overhead spray, and the floor and the staging may be wetted to produce extra humidity. Plants in orchid cases or over humidity trays can be sprayed and the gravel at their base should be kept permanently moist. If you are attempting cellar cultivation, regular damping down to improve the atmosphere should be a routine job. With greenhouse culture of orchids, spraying is restricted to the summer months, the greenhouse being more affected by the seasonal fluctuations and adverse weather in the winter. Plants in the home are far less aware of the outdoor extremes and may be sprayed all the year round; even a resting plant will benefit from having its foliage moistened regularly.

Care and display of blooms

The care and display of the blooms produced as a result of years of careful nurture, is all part of home orchid growing. To show off the blooms to their best advantage the flower spikes will require some form of support, bearing in mind that many of them will hold their flowers for many weeks. Cymbidiums, Odontoglossums and Phalaenopsis are all spray orchids producing long stems of flowers which will require some support. A thin bamboo cane should be inserted into the pot, close to the plant and away from the rim of the pot where the majority of the roots are. To this the growing spike can be loosely tied up to the base of the buds. The flowers can be allowed to arch naturally. Young flower spikes are extremely brittle and can be all too easily snapped. The supporting cane will ensure protection as well as giving support. Paphiopedilums will benefit from a stake with a single tie just behind the flower, but this should not be applied until the stem is fully grown and the single bud has opened and is mature. The long caned Dendrobiums which bloom along their length in clusters or small panicles will require their bulbs supported in an upright position, while the flowers are left free. After flowering, the spikes on the spray orchids should be cut about 2 cm (1 in.) from the base of the plant and the supporting cane removed. The cane should always be as short as possible, cutting off any surplus above the buds. A tall length of unwanted cane looks unsightly and can be dangerous when handling the plant.

If you prefer your flowering orchids to remain in their growing positions while in bloom, the spikes can be cut and placed in another room for display. They will last just as long in water as on the plant. This not only allows the plant to stay in a good growing position but also takes the strain from the plant at a time when the new growth is starting. The flower spikes on Phalaenopsis are the exception here; it will be seen that there are several ‘eyes’ along the length of stem between the base and the flowers. If the spike is cut back to one of these eyes a further spray of blooms will result. This action is only recommended on a strong, healthy plant which can support its blooms over several months.

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