Archive for March 12th, 2008

SWEET BAY (Laurus nobilis), HOLLY (Ilex) AND BOX (Buxus sempervirens)

If these plants are grown as clipped specimens they should be trimmed as necessary during the summer to keep them neat.

Box can be trimmed with a pair of sharp garden shears, but the large-leaved sweet bay and hollies are better trimmed with hand pruners to avoid cutting the leaves in half. Cut leaf edges turn brown, creating an unsightly appearance. It can be rather slow and tedious cutting each shoot with hand pruners, but it is well worth the trouble in the long run.

WINTER JASMINE (Jasminum nudiflorum)

This climber should have some of its oldest and weakest wood cut out completely.

Then prune back old flowered shoots to leave only about 8cm (3in) of their base. Prune winter jasmine immediately after flowering. Read the rest of this entry »

The majority of permanent ornamental plants like shrubs and climbers do not need any pruning apart from the removal of dead and dying wood. However, there are some that need regular attention, as detailed below.

HEATHS AND HEATHERS, SANTOLINA (COTTON LAVENDER), SENECIOS AND LAVENDERS

These small shrubs need to have their dead flowers removed. This is quite a simple and quick operation. Trim off the dead flowers immediately after blooms have faded with a pair of sharp garden shears, but do not cut into the wood. Read the rest of this entry »

A problem with container growing in areas that experience severe frosts in winter is that the potting soil can freeze solid for prolonged periods. The frost itself will not harm very hardy or tough plants; the problem is rather that it prevents them from absorbing water and therefore the plants could die of drought! One way to prevent this happening is to move the containers into a frost-free yet cool greenhouse or conservatory during severe weather. This will certainly be necessary for less-hardy and tender plants that could be damaged or killed by severe frosts. Read the rest of this entry »

LogoAlexa CounterFeedBurner Counter