Colour in the garden in autumn is always welcome, and when it comes from one of South Africa’s most reliable sub-shrubs, what more could you ask for? When it also offers refreshing and cooling blue flowers as a change from the traditional autumn colours of rust, copper, red and orange, it is an absolute essential plant for the garden. Read the rest of this entry »

The vividly coloured, glistening flowers of these succulents make them popular garden subjects, but their other attributes include interesting foliage, drought tolerance and adaptability to adverse conditions. Read the rest of this entry »

Also known as speedwell, veronica is a beloved old perennial that may have an upright form with spiky flowers, or be a low-growing, mounding creeper. Both types bloom in blue, as well as pink, white, lavender and rose, in late spring and summer. Give upright growing veronicas one of the best spots your garden has to offer. The plants produce dozens of 45-cm-long flower spikes, which can be cut regularly to prolong flowering. Any flower with flat blossoms, such as gloriosa daisies, looks great with upright veronica. Read the rest of this entry »

Candytuft brings drifts of lacy white blooms to the spring scene, often flowering from late winter for many months. Although grown as an annual, candytuft will last for several seasons, but does become leggy. This can be rectified with gentle pruning after flowering. Read the rest of this entry »

Gardening in the searing summer sun is always a challenge. Not only do plants wilt in the heat, but gardeners also suffer. But hot summers don’t mean that you can’t have a colourful garden. Numerous care-free plants with tropical temperaments crave high temperatures and strong sunlight. Read the rest of this entry »

To learn how plants that thrive in acid soil fit into their 1 natural environment, explore a natural forest. The same forces that shape and nurture a forest create acid soil. The copious rain that filters through the trees and soaks the ground underneath will leach alkaline minerals such as limestone sediment from the soil, neutralising it. At the same time, the natural mulch of evergreen leaves forms a blanket on the forest floor, along with bark and discarded branches. As this mass of plant matter begins to break down, it contributes acidity to the soil. So, unless a forest happens to be sitting atop a hefty deposit of crumbled limestone, the natural pH of its soil will be in the acid range. Read the rest of this entry »

Mild winters are the saving grace when you live in a climate where summers are a little too long and often too hot for comfort. In some areas, winter is a season of ample rainfall and cool temperatures that can be enjoyed in the company of numerous garden plants. Although many plants slip into dormancy where winters are mild, there are plenty of evergreen trees, shrubs and perennials, as well as hardy annuals, that will keep the garden vibrantly alive with greenery and flowers through the slow season. Read the rest of this entry »

Every climate has its problems. In the interior and in mountainous regions, winter comes early and stays late, much to gardeners’ frustration. This may explain why gardeners in cold climates often create beautiful gardens. They may be the result of long winter nights spent planning and dreaming. Read the rest of this entry »

This is a gift that will delight youngsters who are keen to try their hand at growing flowers. Children can make the paper packets to give to their friends. Read the rest of this entry »

Using cheap timber, or even timber scraps, you can make this small window box in less than an hour. Present the window box with seeds or plants in small pots already in place. Read the rest of this entry »

The earthworm is one of the earth’s composters, working with bacteria and other organisms to decompose the organic materials deposited on the earth’s surface. Earthworms condition the soil: They aerate the soil with the tunnels they build, providing space and nutrients for growing plant roots. Soil which has been worked by earthworms is porous and spongelike, absorbing rainfall readily. Earthworms pull leaves and other organic materials below the earth’s surface, digesting and mixing them with the soil. Read the rest of this entry »

Compost Materials Branches (an armful or two)

• Wooden poles (3 or 4) Hay
• Grass clippings
• Leaves
• Weeds
• Sawdust
• Kitchen garbage
• Manure (horse, cow, chicken, rabbit, dog)
• Wood ash or limestone Rich topsoil
• Water Read the rest of this entry »

The compost heap should have free contact with the earth so that the various organisms present in the soil can readily migrate up. If the compost heap is built directly over growing vegetation, particularly grass, an acid layer forms, which acts as a barrier to the entry of earthworms and microorganisms. Read the rest of this entry »

SOIL

Soil is generally used in compost heaps. Fertile soil contributes a large population of organisms which help decompose the compost materials, as well as minerals which the organisms need to live. Soil also helps prevent the loss of nitrogen to the air in the form of ammonia gas. Use very thin layers of soil—perhaps 1/8 inch—in the compost heap. It is important not to use too much soil, because it may add too much weight to the heap and compress the materials underneath. Soil is used as an insulating layer after the compost heap is completed. A 2-inch cover layer is sufficient to conserve moisture and heat. Read the rest of this entry »

Materials

Wood

Frame:

2 pieces, 2 by 2 by 36 inches

2 pieces, 2 by 2 by 38 inches

Sides:

32 pieces, 1 by 4 by 36 inches

Furring strips:

2 pieces, 1 by 3 by 36 inches

Roof:

1 piece, 40-inch square (or half an old door)(or corrugated tin) Read the rest of this entry »

Beautiful Rose Gardens, featured examples from the major classes that rosarians use to describe garden roses. All roses belong to a single botanical family, Rosaceae, and also are part of the genus Rosa. There are more than 150 different species of true wild roses found throughout the world, spanning native locales as varied as the tropics and the arctic. A few “roses” commonly grown in the garden are actually hybrids between the true roses and other, non-rose species. Read the rest of this entry »

Roses require extra care in climates that experience regular winter freezes. Freezing damages the delicate cells in foliage, canes, and roots—protect your roses by insulating them from severe temperatures. People living in USDA plant hardiness zones 6-7, with minimum temperatures between -10° and 10°F (-23° and -12°C), should allow the last blooms of autumn to develop hips and remain on their plants, fortifying the roses for winter. With the first frost, mound loose soil over the bud union and lower canes, then mulch heavily with straw. Read the rest of this entry »

Training roses to grow on vertical supports allows you to use vertical space in your garden while creating a memorable and creative garden feature. Most rose varieties are suitable for training onto supports, but climber, rambler, and piller roses are the plants of choice for best results. The roses also benefit from the air flowing through their foliage, helping them to dry more quickly and avoid fungal diseases. Read the rest of this entry »

Roses grown in containers require annual repotting to keep them healthy and obtain optimal blooms. Rootbound plants become stunted and produce limited foliage and flowers. If a larger container is not an option, prune the rose severely: remove about a third of its canes and selected roots. This will shock the plant to produce new roots and shoots. Follow these easy steps when repotting your favorite roses: Read the rest of this entry »

Roses planted in containers require somewhat more care than do in-soil roses. Containers are subject to overheating, dehydration, loss of water-soluble nutrients, and other conditions. Help them thrive by watering them whenever the soil becomes dry, fertilizing every 2-3 weeks, and shielding them from direct sunlight when temperatures climb. Read the rest of this entry »